By Nancy Todd
I love walking across bridges and seeing a city from a different angle. As I walked from the main bustle away from the center of Seville, over the Triana Bridge, and across the Guadalquivir River, a quietness filled me. Bridges do that for me.
At the end of the bridge, on the right, is the 150-year old Triana Market. Built over the ruins of the Castle of St. George, the Market is a great place to mingle with neighborhood folks. It borders the barrio of Triana which is less touristy than the center of Seville. The area was once the home of dockworkers and fishermen.
Food markets get a high rating from the Scoopometer as they tell the story of a culture. Approximately 100 vendors sell their products at the Triana Market. As an ex-ceramics artist, I studied the vendors’ signs created of brightly colored tiles. Moldy legs of ham, complete with thigh and hooves, hung with a distinctive salty smell. Fruits, vegetables and bread. Long skinny fish with pointy teeth glared at me and shellfish made tiny movements on their iced counters. This is a perfect place to stock up on food for a picnic along the river.
I had my choice of small tapas bars and settled in for meatballs with tomato sauce and a glass of white wine. Laughter and chatter surrounded me. The server talked to the customers like they were family. More entertainment played out from the server bellowing orders to the cook who stood close enough not to need the bellow. Wiping his hands on his soiled apron, the chef wiped his forehead of sweat, and smacked another fish on the grill making a quick sizzling sound. I felt like I was in a movie. Nope, this is the real thing. I had another reality check that I was living in Spain, a country I love.
Market hours: About 8am to about 2pm, or whenever people feel like opening or closing. Closed Sundays.
Plaza del Altozano, s/n