The Scoopettes love obscure places that are not in your average travel book. Robin Graham, our expert from Andalucía, has sips and morsels of info regarding sherry and eats in Sanlucar de Barrameda. You will want a glass of sherry and some delectable Spanish food after reading his take.
By Robin Graham
Not even in Jerez de la Frontera have I (yet) found a sherry bar with a list as good, and prices as low, as Er Guerrita, a bar on a shabby corner in Sanlucar de Barrameda’s old town. This is one point of the famous Sherry Triangle, the other two being Jerez itself and El Puerto de Santa Maria on the Bay of Cadiz. Sanlucar is also coastal and sits on the southern bank of the Guadalquivir River. On the other side, the huge Doñana National Park is easily accessible from here.
Manzanilla Sherry is available in every bar in Andalusia, I dare say, but in Er Guerrita they’ll also do you a Manzanilla Pasada or a Manzanilla Amontillada from the barrel, both rare finds. From the bottle it gets even better – several Amontillados and Palo Cortados as well as Olorosos by the glass and all available by the bottle from their enoteca (wine shop).
It’s probably the nicest bar in town, but it isn’t the only one. Casa Balbino, on the Plaza del Cabildo, has a lot going for it, starting with the Plaza itself – maybe the prettiest, most laid-back little square I’ve seen in the region, and well-used by local families treating themselves for a sherry, coffee or ice cream.
Balbino gets another gold star for its food – a fantastic range of local fish and seafood as well as ibericos (ham) and traditional local dishes like Brazo Gitano – a roulade of creamed potatoes, tuna and egg.
The bar has a terrace that sprawls out onto the square but the waiters who loiter about the place are there simply to clean up; unusually, the place is self-service, but the schlepping up and down to the bar (how they keep track I’ll never know) is not only worth it but quite fun, and gives a taste of just how skillful (and busy!) the average Spanish waiter is. If you fancy a bit more pampering, or a bit more fish, go down to the water where the seafood restaurants on the Bajo de Guia strip have a reputation throughout Spain.
Robin Graham writes about Andalusia, Spain and some other stuff. His stories can be found, with accompanying photography, at alotofwind He’s a private person but, strangely, doesn’t mind being followed: @robinjgraham or liked: alotofwind
Photography at 500px.