Following in Quijote’s Crazy Footsteps in Castilla

Lagoons in Ruidera ,Spain

Castilla La Mancha is a desolate landscape, made up of farmland, crimson soil and Don Quijote’s windmills. Nowadays, the old Spaniard’s mills are producing environmentally sound energy, their powerful white blades spinning at turbo speeds against the red hills. Driving through the middle of Spain on the N 430, one is constantly reminded with small signs and roadside illustrations, that this is Quijote’s country, where he and his sidekick made their infamous journey.

Just between the larger towns of Ciudad Real and Albacete, sits dusty Ruidera and its stunning series of blue lagoons. In the twenty kilometres to the north and south of Ruidera lie waterfalls, caves, castles, and fifteen aquifer-fed lagoons. A Natural Park, this area is a wonderland for hikers and bikers, with interpretive trails hugging the water. One marked footpath traces Quijote’s journey through the park, as he was said to spend quite some time around the Ruidera lagoons.

Lagoons such as Blanca and Cenagosa, can only be reached by bicycle or hiking trail, and provide secluded havens for bird watching and tranquillity. Mostly aquatic birds are viewed along the lagoons, and while the Somormujo Mallard may be hard to spot there are plenty of Lagoon Eaglets and Parrón Moñudos to admire as they paddle along the unbroken surface. Most of the lagoons are protected paradises where swimming is left to the fish and ducks. San Pedro, Batana, Tomilla, and Salvadora lagoons however, are open for human swimmers and water sports. Kayaking, canoeing, windsurfing and even snorkelling are popular lagoon activities, with gear rental shops in Ruidera.

After a dip, hikers might try the Cueva Montesinos trail, an easy 1.5 kilometre walk to a cave large enough to walk around in but small enough not to get lost in. The cave is also part of Cervantes’ story, where Quijote was said to meet a French nobleman named Montesino. For more of a challenge, the Castillo de Peñarroya trail is a good 21 kilometre hike to a boxy castle with Muslim roots but a reformed Spanish appearance. Following the castle trail, hikers will pass shallow lagoons, El Hundimiento waterfall and the 18^th century Villanueva canal.

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