Forget eggs, bacon, and pancakes and instead head to these cafes in Seville to eat like a local. Writer Cat Gaa has the scoop.
By Cat Gaa
There is little as satisfying as a milky coffee in an orange-tree lined plaza in Seville in the sun. Locals take their breakfast and coffee hours quite seriously, as many eat a small snack early, then have a heartier breakfast midmorning. ‘Merienda’ is the coffee hour that ‘sevillanos’ will eat between 5pm and 7pm, usually opting for a coffee and a sweet cake.
Typical breakfast food in Southern Spain’s capital is, without a doubt, a toast (called ‘tostada’) and coffee, often accompanied by orange juice. Toast can be topped with virtually anything, from olive oil, to deli meats to butter and marmalade, and even even pig lard! Order yours as either a full ration, ‘una entera,’ or as a half, called a ‘media.’
Prices will vary slightly by bar, but you can expect to pay between €1.50and € 2.50 for the toast and coffee, and with more toppings and orange juice a bit more.
Don’t expect to find eggs, bacon, or even fruit and yogurt in most bars – these foods are saved for other meals or as a sweet ending to them!
Best for Breakfast
La Esquina del Arfe – Just steps from the bullring, this age-old bar serves up enormous toast slices in an efficient manner. There’s a bit of outdoor seating, too, and the bar rubs elbow with some of the city’s trendiest cocktail bars. Just don’t be put off by the images of Christ and the Virgin Mother behind the bar! (Calle Arfe, 26. Open daily).
La Cacherreria – One of Seville’s recent success stories is this quaint bar on Calle Regina, part of Seville’s Soho Bendita district. Choose from toast, yogurt bowls with muesli, baked goods, and even milkshakes – all prepared in the kitchen right in front of you. The space is small and fills up quickly, so be prepared to wait. La Cacherrería is open for cocktails, too. (Calle Regina and Calle Jerónimo Hernández. Open Mon-Weds from 8:30am until 9:30pm and Thurs-Sat until 3pm. Closed Sundays).
La Taberna del Alabardero – While it’s on the more expensive side, this hospitality school serves lovely, traditional breakfasts in an old palace. You can also have lunch or dinner later with exceptional service. (Calle Zaragoza, 20. Open daily).
Food Stand - If you’re in the mood for ‘churros,’ the famous fried-dough sweet, try the humble stand on Calle Arfe, just next to the Postigo. The woman will hand them to you in wax paper, but you’re welcome to eat them in the next bar with chocolate or coffee. Churros are typical for both breakfast and as an afternoon snack.
Best for Biscuits and Baked Goods
Red House – Red House is part wine bar, part pastry shop, part Internet café, and part cultural exhibition space. Centrally located near the Setas and the Macarena neighborhood, this bar has changed the coffee scene in the city and is becoming a popular alternative to traditional ‘confiterías.’ (Calle Amor de Dios, 2)
La Campana – Considered one of Seville’s best-loved cafes, patrons come for the sweets by the kilo and plenty of different cakes. There’s some outdoor seating in the square of the same name (with a small surcharge for service) or you can stand at the bar. Take-away is also available. (Calle Sierpes, 1. Open daily).
Horno San Buenaventura – Like La Campana, Horno San Buenaventura is an institution. Grab a table in the shadow of the massive cathedral with coffee and a pastry, or even a sandwich in the small deli. You can also take dozens of typical sweets away by the kilo, or bread for sandwiches. There are three central locations – Calle de la Constitución, Plaza Alfalfa, and Calle Carlos Cañal. (Open daily).
Cat Gaa left the skyscrapers of Spain for the olive groves of Southern Spain in 2007. Breakfast is easily her favorite meal of the deal, and her toast of choice is olive oil, ripe tomato and fresh cheese with a bit of garlic. Catch up with her on her blog, Sunshine and Siestas.
*Get more local tips on eating out in Spain here: http://eat-guides.com/